Ancona and the Riviera del Conero
About Ancona
It is one of the oldest cities in Italy, yet, Ancona is usually nowhere near the top of the ranking when it comes to the country’s most visited cities.
Located on the Adriatic shore, just on the opposite side of the Peninsula from Rome, Ancona has been a seaport for thousands of years and it is to this day one of the major shipbuilding centres in Italy and Europe.
The Greeks arrived here by sea (from their colonies in Sicily) and built a first settlement.
They also gave the city its name, since the ancient Greek name for Ancona means “elbow”, a reference to the promontory where the ancient where the old city (“Acropolis”) was built and the Medieval Romanesque cathedral currently stands.
What to see in Ancona: the old town
As you would expect in a city with such an ancient history, the oldest part of Ancona is on a hilltop. It is here that the Greeks built their first acropolis, that would later become Roman. It is from this ancient core that Medieval Ancona sprung and developed.
The oldest part of Ancona, on a hilltop
Old Ancona is crowned by the cathedral, which was built during the 11-12th Centuries, although a much older church had likely stood on this spot for centuries prior to that.
Its entrance is guarded by a pair of stone lions, while its interior keeps the remains of several saints, including that of St. Ciriaco, patron saint of the city. These are actually exhibited in the crypt, which make for quite a spooky sight!
Ancona cathedral is of a a relatively modest sized compared to those found in other Italian cities. But this can be misleading as to the importance of Ancona in the middle ages.
In fact, Ancona was a maritime republic for a few centuries, in competition with Adriatic powerhouse, Venice, and it had a vibrant economy and a rather cosmopolitan population that included significant Greek and Jewish communities.
The rest of the old town spills from the hilltop downwards onto the adjacent plain, a maze of narrow streets and alleys so typical of Mediterranean towns.
In this regard, I wouldn’t say Ancona particularly stands out in terms of monumentality, but it does have some interesting details and a scale that allows you to visit leisurely without getting overwhelmed by the surroundings, as it is often the case in many old Italian cities.
Visiting the port of Ancona: past and present
Ancona is, eminently, a port city and some of its most interesting historical episodes are connected to the sea. From example, it is from Ancona that Roman emperor Trajan embarked for its campaigns in Dacia (present day Romania) and to mark this occasion a triumphal arch was erected. It stil stands to this day, although dwarfed in scale by the more modern constructions around the port area.
It is also due to its role as a port that, in the First World War, Ancona saw its fair share of action, despite being way behind the (land) frontlines.
In 1915 the Austro-Hungarian fleet bombarded the city, causing significant damage. But, the most interesting episode is perhaps that of the daring seaborne raid staged on Ancona’s Lazzaretto (one of the port’s fortifications) by Austrian commandos in April 1918.
The intruders were, however, challenged by two sentries of the Guardia di Finanza (an Italian military corps that is also in charge of customs control and fighting tax fraud). A short fight ensued that ended with the capture of the assailants.
The port remains key to Ancona’s economy. Fincantieri, Italy’s largest shipbuilding company builds some of the most modern models of cruise ship here.
This was actually the purpose of my trip to Ancona, as we came to the city to see the keel laying ceremony for the Regent Seven Seas Splendor, one of the newest and most luxurious cruise ships in the world.
Where to stay in Ancona
SeePort Hotel
Via Rupi di Via XXIX Settembre, 12,
60122 Ancona, Italy
This is a modern boutique-style hotel located on the slope of one of the hills next to Ancona’s port.
Although not right in the center of town, it is within a walkable distance and it provides what is perhaps one of the best views of Ancona’s seafront and harbour.
Ginevra restaurant and rooftop
These are two of the highlights of the SeePort hotel.
Here I had the chance to taste several dishes such as this risotto (below) and a very interesting menu that consisted exclusively of potatoes (of different varieties and cooked in different ways)
The view from the SeePort hotel. Ancona has regular sea links with other ports in the Adriatic and Greece
Where to eat in and around Ancona
In this trip I was able to get a taste of some really amazing cuisine in and around Ancona.
Restaurant La DegOsteria
Via Ciriaco Pizzecolli, 3
60121 Ancona, Italy
Led by four young chefs, La DegOsteria is one of the places to include in a gastronomical tour of Ancona. It is located a bit north the centre, near the port area, but well worth the ride.
(I had somes issues with my camera, so I only could keep pictures of the dessert, which tasted as great as it looks here!)
Things to do and where to eat around Ancona
Ancona is not just a urban destination. The Marche region, of which it is the capital, boasts a long coastline, known as the “Riviera del Conero” (taking its name from Mount Conero, a rocky promonotory in its midst) with countless beaches.
And you don’t need to drive far from the city center to encounter some lovely stretches of countryside, complete with rolling hills and lush with greenery…
It is precisely in one of these rural settings where we had one of the most remarkable gastronomic experiences during our Ancona trip.
Restaurant Saviotti
Frazione Massignano, 3
60129 Ancona, Italy
This is an absolutely delightful spot for an evening meal.
Although officially within Ancona’s territory, this restaurant is located in Massignano, a rural hamlet a few miles from the centre, in the middle of the countryside.
Saviotti is a family-run affair, taking a tastefully decorated town house. But, as the weather was nice, we had our dinner outside, in the terrace, which has great views of the surrounding countryside (and of the moon rising over the Adriatic!).
Glad to report that the food was as glorious as the views!
Restaurant & Hotel Fortino Napoleonico
Via Poggio, 166
60129 Portonovo, Italy
This is another remarkable place to eat near Ancona (it’s located a few miles down the coast)
Located right on the seashore in an old Napoleonic era fort (some guns are still visible all around and the decor aims to evoke the “Empire style” of the time). Its terrace allows you to dine while enjoying the sea breeze, while the blue-green waters of the adjacent bay are always on the line of sight.
The star here is, obviously, seafood!
